When thinking about making your garden more water conscious,
consider your soil type, aspect, style of planting and the
facilities available.
For example, if your garden is exposed to full sun, subjected
to high winds, or has a very free draining soil, the likelihood
of your garden suffering from drought is higher. Luckily,
there are many simple water saving techniques to help you.
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SOILS
Improving your soil structure is essential to keep plant
roots moist, especially in the hottest and driest areas
of your garden.
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Free-draining soils
Add at least a barrowload of organic matter to every
4m2 of ground and dig in to a depth of 15cm. Every
new planting hole should have organic matter added
before planting. There are many types of organic
matter but spent mushroom compost or well-rotted
manure are both ideal.
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Shallow soils
Dig out planting pits with a pickaxe and fill with
improved soil, a good home-made compost or bought
multipurpose compost. For shrubs and trees, make
the pits at least 60cm deep; for large perennials
15cm should be adequate.
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Clay soils
Dig in a 5cm layer of sharp grit to a depth of 15cm
to improve soil structure. Adding the same amount
of organic matter will also be beneficial.
MULCHES
Using mulches is one of the easiest methods of water
conservation. They not only suppress weeds, which are
great water lovers, they also keep the soil cool, reduce
evaporation and soil compaction and can be very attractive.
The best weed suppressors are cocoa shell, finely chipped
bark, plastic sheeting and grass clippings - the latter
two proving the best at holding moisture in the soil.
Mulches such as pebbles and gravel help suppress weeds
and are excellent for preventing soil compaction and
surface run-off. Generally, mulches should be applied
as a 5cm to 8cm layer. Avoid heaping bark, cocoa shells
and grass clippings around plant stems as this can lead
to rotting in winter. In windy gardens and on slopes,
use extra large bark chippings or gravel.
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| For new borders or large areas,
use sheets of black plastic membrane or woven
sheeting, placed directly onto the soil. They
exclude light and keep moisture in the soil, while
allowing rain and irrigation water to pass through.
A cross cut in the membrane allows for planting
and the entire surface can then be covered with
a 2.5cm layer of ornamental mulch. |
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RAINWATER AND `GREYWATER'
Collecting rainwater is a sensible option and it's free. A
water butt or series of linked water butts can provide for
the whole garden time of shortage. Make sure your butt has
a covering lid to prevent unwanted debris accumulating.
Many water companies and local authorities offer special
deals for water saving equipment.
'Greywater'
'Greywater', or water that has been used within the home for
washing and bathing. can be re-used in the garden providing
simple rules are followed. Never re-use water containing strong
detergents, chemicals or household cleaning agents and avoid
re-using water while a member of the household is ill or using
a topical form of skin treatment. Always allow the water to
cool before re-use and vary where you use greywater in the
garden. Don't use on edible crops and on leaves of plants,
only water the roots. You can buy diverters to direct bath
and shower 'greywater' water from a downpipe straight to your
garden hosepipe, but do not store it for long or mix with
other collected water as it will become rancid much more quickly
than rainwater.
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